When planning my trip to China, I discovered that in Chengdu, you can cycle along a nearly 100-km bike path that traces the perimeter of a metropolitan city of 21 million inhabitants. To say I was amazed is an understatement. My curiosity about this unfamiliar world grew even further.
Preparing for the Ride
Our base in the city is the Bike+Work shop, where the staff greets us warmly and professionally, helping us prepare our road bikes. We’ll use Strada and Strada Italia the next day to ride the Tianfu Greenway. The shop is stocked with high-end products, a sign of a burgeoning cycling culture. This is further highlighted by the keen interest shown by customers and passersby—not only in our bikes but also in us: our attire and how we prepared for the ride.
Sun is joining us on the loop, a young local with a large following on Chinese social media and a strong connection to the Bike+Work community. I’m eager to experience a cycling culture I’ve never encountered before. We clip in, and off we go!
Entering the Tianfu Greenway
The Greenway is just a couple of kilometers from the shop, and it’s immediately clear that its design prioritizes usability. Well-marked, separated paths keep cyclists away from urban traffic and lead directly to the Greenway’s official entrance.
Once we reach the loop, we can hardly believe our eyes. The asphalt is flawless, the turns are clearly marked, and there are even distance indicators. It’s a two-lane highway for bikes—one lane for each direction. And it’s exclusively for bicycles! Motorised vehicles are entirely prohibited, ensuring a serene ride. While the Greenway remains distinct from the urban area, it alternates between skirting the city and passing through rural landscapes, parks, and rivers. The constant contact with nature creates a sense of escape from the metropolitan bustle, which, though occasionally visible, always feels safely distant.
Discovering a Cyclist’s Paradise
The first thing that strikes me is the unexpected silence, broken only by the infectious enthusiasm of our guide, Sun. He points out landmarks, shares insights, and makes us feel part of the experience.
The Greenway is dotted with numerous bridges, each uniquely designed—a testament to the project’s attention to detail. The Tianfu Greenway is not one of those initiatives that is abandoned after launch—quite the opposite. Regular maintenance, the pristine road surface, and abundant resupply and mechanical assistance points make it a lively and functional space.
Thanks to a couple of tire punctures and irresistible stops to explore the surroundings, we reach lunchtime, barely covering a third of the route. I’ve learned in China that mealtimes are sacred and strictly observed. Sun takes us to a traditional, decidedly non-touristy restaurant just off the bike path. Within five minutes of sitting down, we’re presented with various dishes I’ve never seen before.
A Taste of Chengdu
I’ll admit, my curiosity is occasionally tinged with hesitation—like when a dish filled with chicken feet is placed in front of us. The flavours, however, surprise me: bold yet always balanced and enjoyable.
After lunch, we resume our journey, and I’m struck by the diversity of people using the Greenway. On one hand, a performance-focused crowd embracing a more Western-style cycling culture, training or participating in group rides like those organised weekly by Bike+Work. On the other hand, many use the path for commuting or running errands. It’s a rich and varied cycling scene that feels inclusive and welcoming. I’m increasingly convinced that the language of cycling is universal, transcending cultures, countries, and traditions and uniting people.
A Surprising Finale
The day continues in a relaxed and leisurely atmosphere as we head back toward the city. But there’s one last surprise. About 15 km from the end, we come across a park interwoven with beautiful hairpin turns, creating a scene that feels like a cross between Central Park and Watopia.
If I had to sum up the day on the Tianfu Greenway in one word, it would be “amazement.” In the most positive sense, amazement at experiencing a series of green oases, leaving the chaos of a megacity behind, only to return a few hours later. I am amazed at a cycling culture deeply attuned to aerodynamics and performance but equally dedicated to community and shared experiences—amazed at the care and thoughtfulness that make the Greenway truly one of a kind.
This loop was just an appetizer. In the following days, Cynthia Carson will join me for a four-day bikepacking adventure in the mountains about 100 km from Chengdu. Of course, Sun will be with us as well!
The full gallery
